Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Confusion at Santa Lucia

We had vouchers to get on board the train.  However, contrary to the advice from my brother, they did not have a car number and seat number.  We were getting apprehensive!  

Years ago, while traveling in Germany, I had boarded the First Class train by accident.  I did not want to repeat this with my family.



The conductor was busy telling people not to board the train for another ten minutes.  The ticket counter was not helpful converting our electronic tickets into paper tickets.

I flagged down an Italian in a jumpsuit - "Senore?"  He spoke little English and me little Italian.  We were able to agree that our voucher had neither a car number or seat numbers.

Eventually my wife flagged down the conductor with my polite "senore?"  He asked my wife for our surname.  She said "Catanzaro".  His eyes widened and he smiled.  He was from Catanzaro!


He quickly helped us by logging on to an app and determining our train, row and seat number.  Serendipity!

Once aboard we looked through our documents and found the reservation.  Later the same conductor came by to check our bigiletto.  He smiled as I was able to show him our reservation.



I enjoy vistas and a short nap while the play.


Train station "helpers"

While waiting at Santa Lucia Station for our train, an interesting behavior caught my eye.



I saw a group of three men hovering around the steps leading up to the station.  One of them would approach somebody and help them lift their bags up the stairs.


Upon arriving at the top of the stairs they would pause and look innocently at the person they helped, inviting them to provide some compensation for their effort.


The three friends would regroup and smile about their earnings and go off separately looking for another person to "assist".

Mooches or entrepreneurs?  You decide!


Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Dinner on the streets of Venezia

We were looking for a place to eat...always a struggle with six different palates spanning 40 years!  We checked out a couples and doubled back only once before settling on a place.




We quickly ordered caprese for our grumbling stomachs.  My oldest made me proud by asking for me to choose something interesting for him:  gnocchi quatro fromaggio.  My daughter and I discussed the ravioli with sage, butter and poppy seeds.  My third child wanted tortellini - carabonara.  The youngest of us ordered "white pasta" - spaghetti with butter.  My wife chose the grilled sea bass.  I had a hard time choosing - calamari with polenta? - eventually I settled upon frutta di mare.

My dish was a lot of work!  However, half a liter of wine made everything much easier.

For dessert we had some gelato, panna cotta, and a chocolate salami.  I had confused panna cotta with panettone.

Panna cotta

Panettone

The chocolate sausage was the favorite of the family!


The Famous Venice Fish Market

The famous Venice Fish Market where fresh fish arrives in the morning.  Amazing quantity and variety - mussels, clams, crab, octopus, squid, tuna, salmon, sea bass, and even swordfish.
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Everything was on ice.  The smell was almost non-existent.  It gets washed down every day.  Candidly the alleys smelled much worse, likely because they do not get hosed down each day.


The "Natural" History Museum in Venice

My wife had heard about a wonderful Natural History Museum near our hotel in Venice.  It was literally less than 1/4 mile and had wonderful exhibits.  Of course almost all were in Italian, but can you blame them!?

Such a beautiful building as viewed from the Grand Canal.  It was said to be a Duke's home that was converted into the museum.

The courtyard was gorgeous.  This year happened to be the bi-annual art exhibit.  There were many pieces of art added to the exhibit - each was labeled to distinguish it from the natural exhibits.








There were lot's of interesting animals and artifacts inside.  The dinosaur exhibit had a sarchosucus over 25 ft long!

Check out a few of the animals on display:




Things started to get weird when we encounted a room with the bizarre.


Check out the shrunken head and the man-fish next to my son!  This man-fish led to enormous laughter for the whole family.  It just got sillier from there.


Come on!  What is up with the two headed deer?

Once we got to this point, everything started to be funny!  For instance , this graffiti was spotted just outside the museum.


Here my youngest us looking for man-fish in the canal!


Stop!  No man-fish allowed!



Murano glassworks

We took a water taxi out to the island of Murano.  We were led to a glass demonstration.  They melted the silica into molten glass all night long.  The silica is imported from France while the fuel for the furnace was methane gas from Russia.  It is hard to understand how this industry got its start in Venice.  Venice has no natural resources!

The explanation provided was that sodium bicarbonate was available from the Byzantine empire.  Venice played a critical role in trade with the Byzantines.  This purportedly put them in a position to gain access to all the supplies they needed.  Still, how did it start?

We saw them roll the liquid glass into the colored metal oxides.  These added color to the outside of the glass,  to get uniform color, oxides are mixed into the silica before melting, the night before.

It is difficult to match the color of any given batch, so they need to mix enough glass to finish the project.

Red : Cesium oxide
Green : Copper
Blue : Cobalt
Amethyst : ?

After building a simple figure, the craftsman placed a piece of paper on it and it burst into flames, showing how hot it was.  If it were a sellable work, it would be placed into a furnace to anneal over night.  Slow cooling enables relief of the stress in the glass, producing a stronger piece if glass.

We visited over 12 rooms of objects d'art.  Oscar, our guide, was happy to discuss the art, history, and technology.  Of course he wanted to sell us a piece.  This was just the classic "sales dance"; offering information, a friendship, in hopes of establishing the foundation for a profitable sale.

Oscar told us that the Venetians had created very strong glasses.  Other Europeans add lead to glass to improve the strength - hence leaded crystal.  This became so popular that eventually the Venetians had to offer leaded crystal too. RoHS requirements in the EU have resulted in all lead being removed from glasses.

My favorite pieces were the vase and the cuttlefish. 





The vase is made with a series of canes. A cane is a rolled cylinder of colored glass.  It is similar to the preform used in fiber optics as well as the canes made from fimo dough.  The canes are sliced like bologna, laid adjacent to each other, and fused onto clear plate glass.  This flat piece is then heated and folded into a vase.

The cuttlefish is made with a layered process that was not described in detail.

It was interesting to see the uniformity of pricing.  Objects were 1000 to 10000 Euro.  Whether it was a vase, chandelier, or work of art, they were all roughly the same price.  Of course, every price was negotiable.  Within minutes, the pieces that had caught my eye were reduced from 3000 to 2000 Euro.

The sales team pushed hard.  They let me take a picture and call my wife.  However, with my youngest son not feeling so well, we were not going to buy it on the spot.

My three other children and I went on to walk the rest of the island.  We put our heads into many shops.  Finally, we purchased a couple of ink pens with metal nibs (seemed more practical than the classic Venetian glass nibs) and a wine cork. Let's hope they survive the trip!

On our way back, we stopped at a cafe and picked up a spinach and cheese focaccia, with dough rolled in seeds, and a ham (bologna) and cheese pannini.  The ham and cheese was a big hit!

We saw a small crab on the pylons coming up from the water.  My number two son was very excited.  I could not tell if he was excited because he likes to eat crab or just because he is a naturalist.

Eventually we found our way back to the glass factory and to the dock.  Twenty minutes later we were headed to Piazza San Marco.

Monday, June 17, 2013

Cruising Venice in the Heat Before our Room was Ready

We landed at 09.00 local time.  However, our room was not ready until 14.00.

We took the Vaporetto over from the airport to our hotel, which was situated on the Grand Canal.  We were close to the fish market, but not to Piazza Rialto or Piazza San Marcos.  This was a blessing.  It was quite and off the beaten track.





We walked for a bit about Venice.  It felt between 85 F - 90 F and very humid.  My shirt was soaked in sweat in just a few hours.

Jacopo checked us in early and we took a brief nap - riposo - to regain our strength and then headed out for dinner.  My youngest fell fast asleep at dinner.  A little confusing in ordering food found us with more margharite pizzas than we expected.  No problem; we were hungry!

I had a frozen limon.  Quite refreshing for the warm evening.




The hotel had kindly placed a chocolate on each of our pillows!